Alabel is frequently asked to replicate woven label samples supplied by customers. This we are happy to do, supplying replicas of the original sample that are called “counter-samples.” Usually we succeed is duplicating the original. Occasionally, however, we are only able to achieve an approximation – sometimes, due to cost factors, a sample is not possible..

Why?

Few people realize the effort involved in label replication. There are five interacting factor classes involved – each with a number of considerations. This complexity makes precise matching of woven labels very difficult – and sometimes impossible.

The five factor classes are:

Difficulties in determining the original precise mix among these areas is the root cause of many reproduction difficulties

In the material that follows we will illustrate the variables involved in each of these five areas.

Loom type

Woven labels are produced on one of three types of loom:

Each of these loom type have their own characteristics, as detailed in a companion alabel article, Contrasts in Loom Technology. Suffice it to say for this discussion that most woven labels today are of the broadloom type made by and handful of European companies. These companies use three different weave approaches: rapier, air jet, and projectile (see inset box). Knowing the manufacturer, machine type and approach is vial to perfect replication.

Yarn Denier

Denier is a definition of yarn density used in the woven label industry. Denier measures yarn mass, in grams of weight, for a length of yarn that is 9000 meters in length. 60 denier yarn, for instance, means that the yarn weighs 60 grams per 9000 meters. The denier range normally used for woven labels extends from 50-200 denier.

Correct denier definition is critical because production depends upon denier size of colored yarn being fed into the loom. Each cone involves 100,000-300,000 meters of yarn, depending on the denier rating.

To make a Beam:
Typically these cones of yarn are arranged in arrays five cones high and fifty cones deep and 10 rolls across for one beam section. There are four to five repeating sections in a broadloom warp beam, which is assembled separately from the loom. . In practice many thousands of yarn strands are wound simultaneously into a section warpper, then placed on the beam. This insures both equality of tension and the separation of strands in an orderly manner. Such effort, however, is not cheap. Manufacturers can spend $5,000 to $10,000 just to warp a beam to the right denier and texture and if the machine can weave the new small or larger number of warp yearn for the harness to control.
The up and down position of each warp yarn strand from the warp beam is controlled via computer by the loom harness. Since loom harness ratings are standardized for efficiency most mills demand a standard that matches their equipment. This standardization affects appearance.

Yarn strands running the length of the loom like the strings of a harp are called warp. They are gradually pulled through the loom as other strands, called weft (or fill) are pulled across them to make the fabric. This pulling process is done at what is called a “pick rate.” As noted above there are various technological approaches for combining the warp and weft strands.

Obviously producing a working sample is expensive – and re-warping an entire beam is cost prohibitive for most customers. That is why advance work in preparing counter samples is so critical! Sometimes it is not even feasible.

Yarn Texture

The denier number within the 50-200 gram range indicates final texture from finest to coarsest. But denier is not the only factor affecting appearance. Care also needs to be taken regarding the type and shape of yarn strands. For example, a customer’s order may be using a 100-denier weft but the sample is a PMS 185 red and we have PMS 185 red but in 70 denier – thus making it impossible to reproduce the desired finer look.

Broadlooms are generally restricted to polyester yarns due to the strength of the yarn and polyester fuses in the fabric by the hot-knife process. Available polyester types include texture polyester, bright polyester, dull polyester, and semi-dull polyester and those are all white in color. Each is available in a numerious colors.

But the variety doesn’t stop here! Depending on the type of extruder used in creating the yarn, the number of micro strands to make a strand of yearn. 20/60D
Each micro strands can be different shapes as well – typically round, triangular or square, The surface of each of these can be either smooth or rough, bright or dull and if the micro yearn are twisted, spun or not effect how the yearn look and react after it is weaved.

Each of these texture factors – plus others – interact to make a world of difference in how the label will look

Yarn Color

Even with identical denier and texture factors there is the question of color standardization. Color standards for woven labels are dictated by PMS-U (Pantone Matching System - Uncoated) or 4PC (Four Process Color) color code. PMS-C (Pantone Matching System - Coated) codes should never be used for woven label specifications. But, even with this standardization, other factors such as water ph, local temperature and humidity, water calcium and alkaline content, water volume and soaking time and temperature as well as the temputure and dryness of the yearn it self will impact color absorption rate and amount and the ultimate visual impact.

Some illustrative examples: (250 degrees for 2 hours with pressre of 90 PSI)

These variations, although seemingly picky, will make a difference in how much dye will get soaked in to the yarn. Also, if the yarn is really dry it will absorb more liquid and in turn more pigment color.

Design Station Characteristics

Design stations are where skilled operators combine scanners, computer software and individual skill to prepare the code that drives the computer. These individuals determine which picks (portion of the loom that controls weft) will go up or down. They will also determine density.

Obviously the end product is determined in part by the skill and preferences of the designer. Also involved are the type of equipment and software he or she is using. Despite the increasing use of standards and compatibility there is still a measure of artistry in each label iteration, a factor that is very difficult to precisely replicate.

All five of the factors outlined in this article ultimately impact how an alabel counter sample replication of a customer’s woven label sample will look. Most of the time, despite the odds, identical or nearly identical replication is accomplished. But, when it is not, the factors listed in this article are generally involved.

What can customers do to help us get the most ideal results? A great help is for them not to expect perfectly identical labels. Another aid is to supply as much information about the original sample as possible. A companion principle to this is to be sure that the counter sample (if feasible and provided) is analyzed and tested for suitability in as many different ways as feasible.

• Utilizes computer technology (rather than older jacquard cards) to both store patterns and control weaving accuracy
• Is 40 times faster than a shuttle loom and 5-10 times faster than needle loom
• Can handle a minimum of seven ,and in some cases up to 12, colors in a variety of synthetic yarns
• Features a 1000 mm to 2000 mm beam divided into five sections of 200 mm each
• Permits each 200 mm section to be divided as desired, with any fractional overage being discarded as waste (manipulation of this factor relative to label width is a significant cost control consideration) 24mm x 8 = 192mm allowing 1mm lost for each heat cut.

• Sizing,
• Backing,
• Dye control
• Laser

• Texture enhancement -- Twill and denim textures (both using heat-resistant cotton fibers) are now practical in broad loom label making. Simply tack down all four sides because cotton heat slit tend to unravel. A little fuzzy edge effect is needed too, because otherwise the cotton won’t stay on. Looms can catch on fire.
• Image Transfer -- Dyed sub-labels can now be produced less expensively using a work-around. As an example, if a custom colors a minimum of 50,000 each are desired the first step is to weave everything in white. Sub-color dyes are then run on a flexor press and rolled. Next, on a heat press, the sub-color dye is placed face down with an all-polyester label and the color transferred. This process works only on polyester label, but the color won’t be as solid as a dye warp beam.
• Warehousing -- If millions of labels over a period of months are desired then dye warp is the way to go. Thousands of pounds of yarn are dyed, then warped to standardize cone tension on a sectional basis. Finally a beam is loaded and weaving commences. By using the same warp and weft yarn over an extended period the same PMS Color standard is achieved throughout the production cycle. Another advantage to large scale weaving besides color consistency is that it deters counterfeiting by mandating a large upfront investment.
• Fine detail weaving -- Damask weave, using for example 50 denier yarn instead of 100, allows more detail. The counterpoint to this is that weaving time is longer and therefore more costly because much finer thread is being used.

• Top sew Fuse cut – also called “straight hot cut,” this is the unprocessed label as it comes off the loom from the hot knife, with usually a minimum of 6 mm margin beyond the weaved space to provide sewing room. This method would typically be used where there are minimal stylistic considerations or need to convey specialized care instructions.

• End fold – approximately 6mm of each end of the label are tucked under and 4-6mm for tack down area on the eather side of label.
  
  
  

  

• Miter fold. --- the ends of the label, called taps for this purpose, are folded at a 45degree angle and are usually 10mm long. This type label is commonly used for shirts
  

  

• Center fold – also called looped, this style causes the front side of the label to be the only one openly visible as the backside is folded in on itself. Typically there is about 7mm minimum for sewing room on the top with logo on the front and size and fiber content and care instructions on the back.
  

  

• Manhattan fold – this is a double longitudinal cut where 5-6 mm of the top and bottom of the label are folded under the main label print area.